All Roads Lead to Rome

Today is Rome day. As we leave Gaeta, we are filled with both sadness and with excitement. Excitement that we are going to see Rome, and excitement for me that we are two days away from seeing departing so that I can see Susan again.

We woke up to cloudy skies this morning and once again, for the last time, we ate breakfast in the hotel restaurant before Vito and Massimo came to pick us up to take us to our hotel in Rome. The trip was much like the trip from Rome, but in reverse. Mountains, vineyards, olive groves, and hot houses the led to flatland, and then to industrial parks, apartments, and then the houses near the city. Our hotel was near the airport where there was a hotel shuttle that would easily take us to the airport train station to get into town.

Saying goodbye and thank you to Vito was very difficult for me. The emotion I felt was extreme sadness. I missed him instantly as the pulled off from dropping us off, while we entered the hotel lobby to check in. Following check in, we went upstairs to our room to quickly drop off our belongings so we could get into town for a full day of sightseeing. First, we went to the ATM in the hotel to get money for our day.

We arrived in the lobby to catch the shuttle to the airport. We did not have to wait long and we were at the train station within a few minutes. I was in awe of how the organization of the trains (Trentalia) as they arrived and departed, and after purchasing our tickets into town we were on our way, cameras in tow.

Riding into town was rather disappointing to me, much like the feelings I had in Naples with the graffiti, poverty, garbage, and the poor general condition of the city. Once in the downtown part of Rome, things changed instantly. Old buildings and busy streets were visible looking out both sides of the train. We started to see signs of some of the monuments and ruins that we would soon visit as well. It was not long before we were in Termini Stazione, Terminal Station, a well-organized train and subway station. The subway is called Metro.

We departed the train only to have to buy tickets at an ATM-like machine for the subway to our first destination, Colosseo, the Colosseum. After our purchase, we headed down underground down several flights of steps to get to the appropriate stop that would get us to our destination. The train runs on a very tight schedule and was there almost immediately. But the crowds were huge with the large number of people in Rome for the installation of Papa Francesco. We moved quickly and were able to board the train together and within a matter of minutes we were arriving at our destination.

As we exited, we climbed up several flights of stairs in the crowd of people to the street level where we instantly saw the ruins of the Colosseum in front of us. The sight was amazing. Ancient history right before our eyes was a sight I had always hoped I would see. We walked across the street to the entrance to the Colosseum where we purchased tickets for a tour in English. Within fifteen minutes, our tour started with about twenty people. Our intent by doing this was to be able to “jump the line” of the general admission visitors.

We entered at the bottom were Roman citizens would also enter. There were fallen columns of concrete and stone lying on the ground all around. Completely surrounding the stadium beneath the stands was an arched-shaped hallway that would have housed the vendors and where spectators would have gone for shelter when needed.

Entering the main structure through a stone and brick walkway that led us to the main level of the grandstands, much like stadium construction is today. The panoramic view of this building and the level of detail that the ancient Romans constructed this to amazed me. There was a lot of ruin within where walls and floors were missing, and grass or weeds grew from many of the stands.

Below was the main amphitheater where the games would take place on a platform atop a series of rooms and hallways where the show preparations would occur with gladiators and animals. We learned that the upper decks would be covered with a cloth tarp that was hoisted overhead by an elaborate series of ropes, posts, and pulleys to help protect the patrons. Walking around to get different perspectives of this massive structure, we could see many angles of the stadium that was built nearly symmetrical all around.

The most visited site in all of Rome, the Colosseum was an amazing architectural feat that we were certainly glad to see, but we had much sightseeing yet to do, so we exited the stadium where we entered and saw the Arch of Constantine. The Arch of Constantine was erected in the year 315 in commemoration of the victory of Constantine I in the The Battle of Milvian Bridge. And on the hillside next to the arch was part of the ruins of the Roman Forum called Palatine Hill.

Walking away from the Colosseum, we walked along the street that paralleled the Roman Forum until we were at a vantage point above the ruins that made for great photographs. At one time, this was the center of Roman culture and government. Everything happened in this area that was surrounded by the Seven Hills of Rome.

Everywhere we looked we saw buildings with architectural marvels built into them, street vendors, tourists with cameras, and traffic. The drivers in Rome are as crazy as they are in Naples. Everyone does whatever they can do without hitting anyone or anything to get the very best position they can to get ahead.

Amongst the ruins were modern-day buildings that enveloped them as if to protect or devour them. There were many churches and statues along to the way to the Monumento Nazionale a Vittorio Emanuele II (or as my parents call it, the Typewriter building because if you look at it straight-on it looks like an older typewriter). This was opened in 1911 and is the equivalent to the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier in America. This building sits right in front of the busiest piazza, or square, in Rome. It is much newer in comparison to the other buildings that dot the landscape for tourists to visit. People are tempted to sit on the steps to rest, but guards do not allow it and will let you know in an instant that you much not sit there. Crossing the street here is taking your life into your hands and while cars zipped past us quickly, none dared to hit a person with many braking suddenly to avoid any mishap.

We walked down Via del Corso, one of the main streets until we saw a courtyard within a building on the side of the street known as Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, the best-known private gallery in Rome. Of course, I had to stop for pictures, and Mark was patient with me wanting me to see all the sites he had seen a few years before when he last visited.

After walking a few more blocks, we both commented that we were hungry. It was well after 2:00 pm. There was a pizzeria on a side street (Via del Montecatini) with outdoor seating that we decided would make for a quaint, Italian lunch stop. We asked for wine and if they had pasta, specifically caceo e pepe, pecorino cheese and pepper on spaghetti noodles. They were happy to make if for us and we thoroughly enjoyed eating our meal in the streets of Rome.

The map we had showed that we were only about four blocks east of the Pantheon. We walked down a narrow side street (Via del Seminario), too narrow for cars, until we reached the monument that was once a pagan temple and a church, now a museum and the best preserved building from ancient Rome. The inside has the exact same height as the diameter of the entire rotunda. The inside is lit only with light from and opening at the top of the dome. As you walk into the entrance, tall columns welcome you into a rotunda that is entirely surrounded by frescos, statues, and paintings from Roman times. At the far end of the entrance, there are seats for worshipers if they desire to do so. At the altar, you are asked to remain quiet so those who silently worship can do so without the noise of the crowds nearby. Guests are asked to register their name and location from where they originate near the end of the circle around the rotunda.

About six blocks away, we found Fontana di Trevi, or Trevi Fountain, probably the most famous fountain in the world which dates back to 19 BC. The crowd around this fountain made it difficult to take pictures, but we were still able to take advantage of satisfying the legend of the fountain.

The myth, originating in 1954 with the movie "Three Coins in the Fountain," goes like this:

• If you throw one coin: you will return to Rome.
• If you throw two coins: you will fall in love with an attractive Italian.
• If you throw three coins: you will marry the person that you met.

In order to achieve the desired effect, you should throw the coin with your right hand over your left shoulder. We each threw just one coin, me because I am already in love and married to the person I love. As for Mark, well, he can tell you his story. Trevi was fantastic!

We back-tracked the same way we came from having lunch so that I could buy an Italian print for Susan. I wanted to also buy a scarf, but the vendor rudely would not allow me to touch the scarf I was interested in when I wanted to see how long it was. I asked if I could so I could see if this was what I wanted to buy and we denied the opportunity, so I left a very dissatisfied customer because I had every intention to buy the scarf.

Our next stop was at Piazza di Spagna, or The Spanish Steps, named because the Spanish Embassy is at the bottom of the steps. These are undoubtedly the most famous steps in the world. Finding them was not easy as we walked on the wrong street. We did end up at the steps, but at the top which provided a great view of all of Rome from high up on the hill.

Tired from the long day, and wanting to beat the rush-hour on the subway, we found the nearest Metro stop and headed back to Termini Station to catch the train back to the hotel near the airport.

Once we were back at the hotel, we both decided we needed dinner and rest. We went to the hotel restaurant and had some drinks and hamburgers and fries (we missed those). And then we were ready to hit the sack for the night.